Terroir, varietal, altitude - the origin of the coffee and its taste

Many people who are just beginning their fabulous coffee journey ask me why coffee is more or less acidic. Why one has a flavour reminiscent of crisp currants and another is cocoa and spice. They are even more surprised when I tell them that in good coffee it comes solely from nature. Coffee is a fruit. And fruit of even one kind can taste radically different.

How is this possible?

Before we begin, I will also admit to my little sin In writing this text, I had to remind myself and put together all the knowledge I have gained over the years of working with coffee. Therefore, I would like to immediately thank Perfect Dialy Grind, James Hoffman and the irreplaceable ... Wikipedia. Without you I think I would be lost ?

Let's start with the most exotic concept, which is terrior. The pronunciation of this word is terule. It sounds a bit French, and maybe that's a good thing, because it's a phrase often used in wine - and France, as we know, is fond of good wine.

So what does this magic word mean?

Terrior is a combination of climatic and geological conditions unique to a particular place. That is, what nature gives us precisely where the coffee tree grows. Everything from which it can draw, for example, mineral values for further growth.

It can be compared to sowing grain. Cereals also need the right soil, sunshine, fertilisation, humidity, temperature. All this is necessary for it to grow properly. Every one of you has a farmer or a friend from whom he or she is happy to buy apples, peaches or cherries. These are the people who can best explain to you what conditions must be met for their crops to be of the best quality. The same combination of several factors affects the taste of the coffee. The arabica tree also needs special conditions in order to grow properly:

• temperatures oscillating between 18 and 21 degrees Celsius,
• semi-shade so that the sun's rays do not burn its delicate leaves,
• moist, but not wet ground,
• Soils - it is often the volcanic, fertile soils that are the ideal base for the growth of the coffee tree.

This is what goes into terrior.

In addition to this, varietal is also important.

Another interesting word, rather unused on a daily basis.

What does it mean? It means the same as botanical variety.

But what is this variety? We can confidently compare it to apples, for example. Coffee, after all, is a fruit, as I keep repeating ad nauseam, so even though there are two varieties, arabica and robusta, they still have a very large number of, in inverted commas, "sub-varieties".

Translating it into ours. We go to the grocery shop, enter the fruit and vegetable section, stand in front of the apple counter, and look... because we can't decide -. grannies smith, papierówka, jonagold, champion. Each of these varieties has its own flavour characteristics, corresponding to its varietal.

So it is with coffee. The mother of all coffee botanicals has become the Ethiopian variety of heilroomwhich later mutated into a variety of typica - and as it went, so it flies to this day ? Every now and then, new botanical varieties are developed whose genetic properties are designed to cope with what is most difficult for the plant. We are, of course, talking about climate change. The world is getting warmer, so coffee trees need to be planted higher and higher. So that they continue to be on the slopes of fertile post-volcanic soils. However, after a while it will be too warm for arabica there too. Unfortunately, coffee will then become more expensive due to the fact that there will be a shortage of places with good climatic conditions. There will simply be less coffee.

Here is another issue that is often raised when it comes to grain quality. Namely - altitude.

It is said that the higher the coffee grows, the better the bean. There is a grain (?) of truth in this. After all, altitude is linked to a drop in temperature, and the lower the temperature, the richer the bean in flavour notes and aromas.

Why? Because the lower the temperature, the slower the cherry ripens. And the slower it ripens, the more time it has to develop a sublime flavour. In addition, there are also fewer insects and bacteria living at high altitudes, and these pose a serious threat to coffee trees.

Keep in mind, however, that if a tree grows too tall, that's not good either. Firstly, it lowers the harvest. Secondly, due to the low temperatures, the cherries may not ripen. Thirdly, the tree may simply not survive.

These are the main components that affect how the coffee ultimately tastes. And remember, if the beans are of high quality, the coffee will have a full bouquet of flavours and there will be no need to burn it hard in the roaster!

The question of flavour notes and aromas in coffee can be likened to something that will be more accessible to those starting out on their coffee adventure. In a way, the work of a barista resembles that of a sommelier. We often hear on TV how a somelier evaluates a wine, talks about its aromas and flavours found in the glass. It is exactly the same with coffee. Nowadays, these segments are intertwined - coffee makers are inspired by winemakers and vice versa. The world of beverages is beginning to form a huge mesh full of connections and interactions.

I hope I have briefly explained what is in the coffee cherries ?

I now wish you a successful journey through the countries of origin of your coffee - because every country is a custom. Each has its own unique characteristics. Therefore, the same botanical variety grown in Ethiopia and Panama will taste different! But we can discuss this endlessly ?

Have a great trip!

Paweł Świderski,

known in the industry as Swider or Sad Swider. He has been dabbling in coffee since 2015. Finalist in many coffee competitions, including 2nd vice champion of the Polish Brewers Cup 2019. A devotee of pour-overs, antitalent of latte art, privately a musician, photographer and nature lover